Research and Development Trends of Natural Novel Ingredients in Cosmetics
In recent years, the application of biotechnology in cosmetics has not only expanded the sources of raw materials but also laid the foundation for the emergence of innovative cosmetic products. This approach avoids over-exploitation of natural plant extracts while making it inevitable for new cosmetic ingredients to replace synthetic chemicals with significant side effects and potential harm. As a result, the research and development of cosmetic ingredients have become more scientific and rational. Utilizing plant cells and other biological systems to produce highly effective substances as cosmetic raw materials represents a defining trend in the evolution of modern cosmetics.
Opportunities for Natural-Origin New Ingredients under the New Regulatory Framework
New Ingredients Adopt Categorized Management
In June 2020, China issued the Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics, Article 4 of which states: "The state implements categorized management of cosmetics and cosmetic ingredients based on risk levels. Cosmetics are classified into special cosmetics and general cosmetics. The state implements registration management for special cosmetics and filing management for general cosmetics. Cosmetic ingredients are classified into new ingredients and already-used ingredients. The state implements registration management for new cosmetic ingredients with higher risk levels and filing management for other new cosmetic ingredients."
This significant regulatory change provides policy support for the broader application of characteristic Chinese plant resources in cosmetics. As is widely known, many traditional plants with regional characteristics in China have a history of application spanning thousands of years. Through this long-term use, their pharmacological activities and usage patterns have been gradually discovered. As cosmetic ingredients, traditional medicine and ethnobotanical records contain extensive documentation of their use, offering valuable references for modern applications. In the past, restrictions at the regulatory level regarding new cosmetic ingredients somewhat hindered the innovative development of efficacy-driven ingredients derived from China's unique plant resources. Under the new regulatory framework, a large number of highly effective plant resources characteristic of China will be applied in the market as new ingredients. The dual approach of deregulation and strengthened supervision for new cosmetic ingredients—tightening management for high-risk ingredients while encouraging innovation for others—will effectively promote the development of new cosmetic ingredients.
State Encouragement for the Application of Characteristic Chinese Plant Resources in Cosmetics
The newly promulgated Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics explicitly state: "Support is provided for the research and development of cosmetics utilizing characteristic Chinese plant resources." In June 2020, the regulations outlined in Article 9 emphasize: "The state encourages and supports cosmetics research and innovation to meet consumer demands, promotes the building of cosmetic brands, and leverages the guiding role of brands. The state protects the legitimate rights and interests of entities and individuals engaged in cosmetics research and innovation. The state encourages and supports cosmetic producers and traders in adopting advanced technologies and management standards to improve the quality and safety of cosmetics. It also encourages and supports the application of modern science and technology in combination with China’s traditional strengths and characteristic plant resources for cosmetics research and development."
Types of New Efficacy Ingredients from Natural Sources
Currently, with the growing consumer demand for cosmetic safety, new ingredients derived from natural sources are increasingly favored. The main types of natural-origin new ingredients include plant extracts, microbial fermentation products, and callus culture extracts.
1. Plant Extracts
With regulatory amendments, a wide range of efficacious plant-based ingredients unique to China are expected to experience rapid development. Research on natural plant ingredients has become highly scientific, leveraging modern scientific approaches to study traditional Chinese plant resources. This includes investigating the material basis for cosmetic efficacy and optimizing preparation processes. Through activity screening, active components or fractions are identified, extracted, and isolated using natural product extraction technologies. These are then validated through in vitro tests, animal studies, and human trials, providing a scientific foundation for cosmetic ingredient development.
2. Microbial Fermentation Sources
In addition to plant extraction, the combination of plant extracts and fermentation has led to novel ingredients, such as the common market example of co-fermented products of yeast and Ganoderma lucidum (reishi mushroom). Traditional microorganisms like lactic acid bacteria and yeast dominate the skincare ingredient landscape. Fermentation-derived products consist of highly absorbable small molecules with strong penetration, mild properties, and the ability to effectively nourish and improve skin condition.
3. Callus Culture Sources
Callus culture technology selects premium natural plants as raw materials without damaging natural resources. By establishing cell lines and domesticating stable, high-yielding strains, it enables large-scale cell culture under optimized conditions. Through directional cultivation, the production of target active compounds is enhanced, followed by extraction and purification. Unique plant cell breeding technology reduces costs to one-tenth of animal cell culture and offers greater safety than microbial fermentation, providing a innovative pathway for developing new natural cosmetic ingredients.
Advantage Analysis of Tissue Culture-Derived Natural New Ingredients – Current Market Status of Plant Callus Extracts in Cosmetics
(1) Use of Plant Callus Extracts in Skincare Products
According to Mintel database research, the incorporation of plant callus extracts in skincare products represents an emerging field, with usage frequency showing explosive growth over the past three years.
(2) Companies and Regions Using Plant Callus Extracts in Products
In recent years, major brands have increasingly incorporated plant callus extracts into their products. As shown in Figure 2, the current use of plant callus extracts is predominantly concentrated in Europe. Companies such as Chanel and L'Oréal have begun utilizing plant callus extracts in the past two years. A smaller number of Japanese and Korean companies also include these extracts in their products. Domestic Chinese brands currently use them less frequently, indicating significant potential for the application of plant callus extracts in the domestic market.
(3) Distribution of Cosmetic Categories and Formulations Using Plant Callus Extracts
As illustrated in Figures 3 and 4, according to the Mintel database, products currently incorporating plant callus extracts are primarily skincare items, with a majority being creams, serums, and gels.
The year 2021 will mark a critical turning point in the development of the global cosmetics market. With the rapid advancement of science and technology, domestic cosmetics companies in China have gained certain advantages in raw material innovation. Not only has significant technological progress been achieved in cosmetic ingredients, but supportive national regulations and policies have also accelerated the development of domestic natural raw materials for cosmetics. The application of plant resources unique to China holds immense potential and promise in the cosmetics field. Comparative studies between plant callus extracts and traditional herbal extracts have shown that callus culture technology not only addresses the issue of over-exploitation of natural plant resources but also offers higher active compound content and efficacy. Evidence demonstrates that plant callus culture technology possesses broad market potential and prospects, providing an effective new pathway for the development of novel natural cosmetic ingredients.
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Content source: Literature titled Research Trends in Natural Novel Cosmetic Ingredients by Li Li.
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